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Portland Head Light and its red-roofed keeper’s house standing on a rugged rocky cliff above the calm Atlantic, under a soft blue sky streaked with clouds.
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The Maine Meander

The QuintessentialNew England Escape.

Lobster rolls by the lighthouse, charming seaside villages, and giant wooden trolls hiding in a coastal botanical garden.

Portland, Ogunquit & Kennebunk, ME October 1-5, 2024

Portland Head LightCape Elizabeth, MainePhoto · Michael Denning / Unsplash
Place
Portland, Ogunquit, and Kennebunk
When
October 1-5, 2024

When I think of Maine, I think of the quintessential New England destination. It’s got everything I love about this corner of America: blueberry pies, buttery lobster rolls, whoopie pies, clam chowder, picturesque lighthouses, dramatic rocky coastlines, charming seaside villages, and even moose! Throw in one of the most stunning coastal botanical gardens I’ve ever visited, and what’s not to love?

Maine is the kind of place where I half expect Jessica Fletcher from Murder, She Wrote to appear around the corner, bicycle in tow, ready to solve another mystery. Those quaint coastal towns, with their weathered shingle cottages, fishing boats bobbing in the harbors, and nautical decorations everywhere, look like they’ve been plucked straight from a New England postcard.

I visited southern Maine in early October, spending time in Portland, Ogunquit, and Kennebunk. Although autumn had officially arrived, there was still a lingering summer atmosphere along the coast. The days were pleasant, the towns were lively, and the first hints of fall foliage added beautiful splashes of red, orange, and gold to the scenery.

Lobster Rolls, Lighthouses, and Coastal Charm

Portland was a culinary delight! I embarked on an unofficial lobster roll crawl, hopping between restaurants in search of delicious variations of Maine’s most famous sandwich. When in Maine, one must take lobster rolls seriously, after all!

After some very dedicated taste-testing (it’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it!), I came to a rather controversial conclusion: I prefer Connecticut-style lobster rolls over Maine-style! There’s just something about that warm, buttery lobster meat that wins me over every time. I realize this is practically sacrilegious to admit while writing about Maine, but what can I say? Sorry, not sorry!

But beyond the food, what I loved most was simply wandering through the little coastal towns without an agenda. Ogunquit and Kennebunk were particularly delightful, with their independent shops, local artwork, one-of-a-kind souvenirs, and charming New England architecture.

There was something so inviting about the weathered wooden buildings, colorful fishing buoys, and small harbors filled with boats. Even the most ordinary streets seemed to have a certain coastal charm. I found myself stopping frequently to admire a pretty cottage, browse a little shop, or photograph some nautical detail that caught my eye.

A small white lighthouse on a grassy point beside a rocky, pebbled shoreline, with waves rolling in from the Atlantic under a soft, cloudy sky.
The little lighthouse along the Marginal Way, Ogunquit

One of my favorite moments was enjoying a lobster roll overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the iconic Portland Head Light at Fort Williams Park. With the lighthouse standing proudly on its rocky perch and waves crashing against the rugged coastline below, it was everything I had imagined a Maine coastal experience would be.

Portland Head Light, a white lighthouse beside a red-roofed keeper’s house, standing on a rocky ledge as waves crash against the rugged coastline below a sky full of white clouds.
Portland Head Light on its rocky perch
A view across goldenrod and autumn shrubs at Fort Williams Park toward the blue Atlantic, rocky islands and a distant shoreline under scattered clouds.
The Atlantic from Fort Williams Park

A lobster roll, a lighthouse, and the Atlantic Ocean. Does it get any more quintessentially New England than that?

A Garden Full of Surprises

While southern Maine has plenty to recommend it, the place that truly stole my heart was one I don’t think gets nearly enough attention: the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay.

It’s a bit of a drive from Portland, but I wholeheartedly recommend making the journey, especially if you have a green thumb or simply enjoy wandering through beautiful gardens and drawing inspiration from nature.

I’ve visited botanical gardens around the world, and this one easily ranks among my favorites.

Despite visiting in October, when many gardens are beginning to wind down for the season, I was delighted to discover that the grounds were still bursting with color. Deep pink and burgundy blooms mingled with golden grasses, while trees dressed in their autumn finery created a gorgeous backdrop of fiery oranges, yellows, and reds.

A garden bed overflowing with pink, peach and cream dahlias beside a gravel path, with a maple turning orange behind them.
Dahlias still in full bloom in October
Two small shingled garden cottages with white trim behind beds of purple verbena, magenta mums and burgundy foliage, framed by trees in red and orange autumn color.
Garden cottages among the autumn blooms

There were peaceful ponds reflecting the changing leaves, winding pathways bordered by lush plantings, charming little garden cottages, and quiet woodland areas that invited exploration. Every turn seemed to reveal something new.

A still pond edged with tall reeds and grasses, reflecting tall pines and shrubs under an overcast sky, with a giant wooden troll just visible among the trees.
A quiet pond, and a troll among the pines

I arrived shortly after opening on a weekday, and there could not have been more than a handful of other visitors around. It genuinely felt as though I had the entire garden to myself!

For someone who loves to meander, this was absolute bliss. No crowds, no rushing, no itinerary to follow. I could wander wherever my curiosity led me, stopping to admire the flowers, listen to the gentle sound of a waterfall, or sit quietly and take in the surroundings.

And just when I thought the gardens couldn’t get any more delightful, I discovered that there were trolls hiding among the trees!

A Whimsical Treasure Hunt

Scattered throughout the botanical gardens are enormous wooden trolls created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo, known for his imaginative sculptures made from recycled materials.

These aren’t your ordinary garden sculptures. They’re larger-than-life woodland creatures, each with its own personality, tucked away among towering trees and along winding forest paths.

One moment, you’re strolling through a peaceful woodland, and the next, you encounter a giant wooden figure peering out from behind a tree or sitting comfortably among the forest greenery. It’s wonderfully unexpected!

A towering wooden troll with shingled hair and a stern face, one hand gripping a tall pine trunk, standing above hay bales and pumpkins on a woodland path.
A troll peering out from the pines
A giant wooden troll with a rust-colored face and big eyes sitting on the forest floor with its arms outstretched, surrounded by tall birch and pine trees.
Sitting comfortably among the trees

I loved how the sculptures transformed an already beautiful garden into something resembling an enchanted forest. Finding them felt like a little treasure hunt, and I couldn’t resist photographing each one I encountered.

What I particularly appreciated was the playful contrast they brought to the gardens. Botanical gardens can sometimes feel rather formal, with their carefully arranged flower beds and meticulously maintained landscapes. But these trolls introduced a sense of whimsy, humor, and surprise.

A giant wooden troll standing among tall pines beyond a reed-lined pond, with the trees reflected in the still water below.
Reflections of a troll across the pond
A wooden troll with spiky twig hair lying back on a woodland clearing, its long arms and legs flung up into the air among the pines.
Arms and legs in the air, pure whimsy

They reminded me that gardens don’t always have to be serious places of horticultural appreciation. They can also be places of imagination, discovery, and childlike wonder.

And really, isn’t that part of the joy of meandering? Allowing yourself to be surprised by what you find along the way.

A Little Piece of New England Magic

Maine delivered everything I had hoped for in a New England getaway: beautiful coastal scenery, charming little towns, wonderful food, and plenty of opportunities to wander without a particular destination in mind.

But what made this trip especially memorable were the unexpected discoveries, from stumbling upon delightful local shops to finding enormous wooden trolls hidden in a botanical garden.

Sometimes, the places that leave the biggest impression aren’t necessarily the most famous attractions. They’re the ones that invite you to slow down, look a little closer, and enjoy the simple pleasure of being somewhere beautiful.

Maine certainly gave me plenty of reasons to do exactly that.

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